Today’s consumer wants jewellery that celebrates individual expression and personal strengths

The gems and jewellery sector is arguably the crown jewel in India’s large export basket that has seen steady growth for several decades. The sector’s market size was valued at $43.71 billion in 2023 and the revenue is expected to grow at a CAGR of 17.35% from 2024 to 2030, touching nearly $133.96 billion, according to Maximize Market Research. Exports of total gold jewellery (both plain and studded) for the financial year 2023-24 rose 16.75%, that of coloured gemstones increased by 14% while exports of platinum gold jewellery jumped by a whopping 449.16%, the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) said in its report. The sector’s export prowess is augmented by the jewellery designing segment that is making waves across the globe, although it has yet to exploit its full potential despite the availability of a large pool of talented designers who excel at balancing tradition and modernity and thrive on innovation and creativity. We caught up with Mumbai-based industry veteran Hetal Vakil Valia, who is a reputable jewellery designer, manufacturer, consultant, and instructor. As founder of Vakil’s Academy of Jewellery Design, she trains young people in jewellery design, gemology and diamond assortment. Here are excerpts from a long conversation:

1. Jewellery designing is indeed an exciting profession for an outsider. What is the inside view?

Jewellery designing from the inside is a fascinating blend of creativity, technical skill, and meticulous craftsmanship. While the profession is undoubtedly glamorous and creative, it demands dedication, hard work, patience, perseverance and a diverse skill set. For those passionate about it, “the rewards are as precious as the jewels we create.”

However, what many don’t see is the technical expertise involved – understanding the properties of various metals and gemstones, mastering techniques like casting, engraving, and setting, and staying updated with technological advancements, such as CAD software for designing, are all quintessential. It’s a constant learning journey that keeps the work intellectually stimulating.

Collaboration is another crucial aspect. “It takes a village to craft a masterpiece.” Working closely with gemmologists, metal smiths, and clients, ensures that the final piece is not only beautiful but also functional and durable. This teamwork often transforms a good design into a great piece of jewellery.

Finally, the business side is equally important. In this unique field where creativity meets commerce in a dynamic dance, building a brand, understanding market trends, and managing logistics are all vital for success.

2. India has a lot to offer as inspiration for jewellery designing (our varied culture, ethnicities, temples, regional diversity and scenic beauty, among others). What inspires your design aesthetic the most?

India is a treasure trove of inspiration. I believe that a good designer looks beyond the obvious and draws inspiration from everything around him/her. Be it nature in all its varied forms (leaves, flowers, fruits, animals, birds, insects, sun, moon, stars, galaxy), or man-made sources (architecture, paintings, tapestries, tiles, utensils, textiles and so on) or religious symbols.

For commercial designs, I first look at the parameters given to me in terms of client taste, preference and budget and then design. For one-of-a-kind designs on the other hand, I give a free reign to my imagination. For instance, my Jadaav designs primarily take inspiration from nature and Indian culture and heritage whereas my diamond jewellery designs are usually inspired by my travel and experiences to create contemporary as well as western designs.

3. Gender-neutral jewellery collections are gaining ground globally. How strong is the trend in India?

Globally, consumers are seeking more inclusive and versatile options. In India, although this trend is still evolving, there is a noticeable shift towards breaking down traditional gender norms and outdated stereotypes in the world of fashion and jewellery.

Today’s consumer wants jewellery that celebrates individual expression, and designers across India are responding to this cultural shift by creating collections that blur the lines between masculine and feminine aesthetics.

Designs are minimalist and gender-neutral, consisting of geometrical shapes and neutral colour palettes. The growing use of materials such as silver, stainless steel and unconventional gemstones reflects a modern sensibility that attracts a diverse audience. The practical consideration is that the jewellery can be worn interchangeably by partners or family members. Moreover, the impact of Indian influencers and celebrities cannot be overstated in amplifying the popularity of gender-neutral jewellery amongst the youth of the country.

This trend towards gender-neutral jewellery in India is not merely a fleeting fashion statement but a reflection of a broader societal movement towards acceptance and personal empowerment through fashion. It is an exhilarating time for jewellery designers like myself to create pieces that speak to the modern Indian's desire for self-expression beyond conventional boundaries.

4. Mixing metals seems to be another of the many new trends popular amongst jewellery lovers worldwide. Are Indian consumers catching up on this?

Absolutely, mixing metals is a trend that’s making waves globally, and Indian consumers are surely catching on.

This trend aligns perfectly with India’s rich cultural tapestry and diverse fashion sensibilities. For instance, mixing metals allows for a fusion of traditional Indian motifs with modern designs, creating pieces that are both timeless and trendy. It’s not uncommon to see brides pairing their classic gold jewellery with touches of silver or rose gold, adding a contemporary edge to their traditional attire.

Moreover, the younger generation, in particular, is embracing this trend wholeheartedly. They love the flexibility that mixed metal jewellery offers — it can be dressed up or down, layered with other pieces, and worn with a variety of outfits. This versatility is key for those who want to make a statement without being confined to a single metal’s aesthetic.

Brands and designers in India are also responding to this trend by creating collections that feature a mix of metals. These pieces often highlight the contrast and harmony between different metals, offering a fresh take on traditional designs. For example, we have seen a rise in the popularity of two-tone bangles, tri-colour necklaces, and mixed metal rings that are both striking and elegant.

The rise in mixed metal jewellery offers endless possibilities for versatility, creativity and self-expression. As a designer, it’s exciting to see this trend flourish and to create pieces that celebrate the beauty of diversity, much like the essence of India itself.

5. In the light of the growing chorus for eco-friendly materials and ethical sourcing, is it challenging to procure quality materials for jewellery manufacturing?

The growing demand for eco-friendly materials and ethical sourcing brings its own set of challenges, but it’s also an exciting opportunity to reshape the jewellery landscape for the better!

One of the biggest hurdles is ensuring that our materials are sourced responsibly. This means working closely with suppliers to trace the origins of our metals and gemstones. It’s not just about finding stunning stones; it’s about ensuring they are mined and processed in ways that respect both the environment and the communities involved. Yes, it requires more time and effort, but it makes the final piece even more special.

Transparency is another challenge. Today’s customers are like savvy detectives—they want to know every detail about where their jewellery comes from. They ask, “What’s the story behind this piece?” As a designer, it’s my job to ensure that every step of the supply chain is crystal clear and ethical.

But here’s where it gets exciting: these challenges spark innovation! We’re seeing amazing advancements in lab-grown diamonds and recycled metals, allowing us to create stunning pieces without compromising on quality or ethics. Using these materials not only shrinks our environmental footprint but also pushes us to get even more creative with our designs. It’s like a playground for the imagination!

So, while sourcing eco-friendly and ethically-sound materials can be challenging, it’s a thrilling journey that resonates with the values of today’s consumers and the long-term health of our planet. It’s about crafting pieces that are not only beautiful but also make the world a better place. In this journey, we find new inspiration and reaffirm the timeless magic of jewellery.

6. India is known for its indigenous technology for jewellery making. How fast is this technology changing?

India's jewellery-making technology is evolving at a breath-taking pace, blending centuries-old traditions with cutting-edge innovations. It's a thrilling time to be part of this industry!

India has always been a hub for exquisite craftsmanship and intricate designs, with techniques passed down through generations. However, the pace of technological advancement in recent years has been nothing short of revolutionary. We're witnessing a seamless fusion of traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, creating a dynamic and innovative landscape.

For instance, Computer-Aided Design (CAD) has transformed the way we design jewellery. It allows for incredible precision and the ability to experiment with complex structures that were once unimaginable. This technology not only speeds up the design process but also ensures that even the most intricate details are executed flawlessly.

3D printing is another game-changer. It has opened up new realms of creativity by enabling designers to create prototypes quickly and efficiently. This rapid prototyping allows for greater experimentation and innovation, pushing the boundaries of what's possible in jewellery design.

Additionally, laser technology is being used for everything from cutting and engraving to welding. This ensures high precision and finish, allowing for intricate designs that maintain their beauty and durability over time.

What’s truly exciting is how these modern technologies are being integrated with India’s rich heritage of handcrafting skills. Artisans who have honed their skills over decades are now using these tools to enhance their craftsmanship, creating pieces that are both contemporary and deeply rooted in tradition. It’s like giving an old master painter a new set of brushes—the results are nothing short of spectacular.

So, while India’s jewellery-making technology is changing rapidly, it's doing so in a way that honours and enhances its rich heritage. The future is incredibly bright, and I’m thrilled to be a part of this exciting journey where tradition meets innovation in the most beautiful way.

7. If you were to name a single challenge for the sector, what would it be?

The rise of lab-grown diamonds, of course.

Lab-grown diamonds pose a significant challenge due to their ability to be produced in large quantities quickly and cheaply. This overproduction leads to price volatility, making consumers hesitant to buy lab-grown diamonds as they fear their value may decrease over time. Despite having the same properties as natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds are often perceived as less valuable because they can be mass-produced. This challenges the traditional view of diamonds as rare and timeless investments.

Moreover, in a market increasingly open to lab-grown alternatives, the natural diamond industry also faces the challenge of addressing these changing perceptions and finding ways to maintain the allure and perceived value of natural diamonds. While lab-grown diamonds offer significant sustainability and cost advantages, they disrupt both pricing dynamics and the traditional perceptions of value and rarity in the diamond industry, creating a complex landscape for both producers and consumers.

8. India is fast emerging as the start-up capital of the world. How is the jewellery design sector faring on this trend?

The jewellery design sector in India is thriving amidst the start-up boom. The blend of tradition, technology, and entrepreneurship is creating a fertile ground for innovation and growth.

One of the most thrilling aspects of this trend is the rise of innovative jewellery start-ups that are redefining how we perceive and purchase jewellery. These start-ups are leveraging technology to offer unique, personalized experiences to customers. For instance, brands like Melorra and CaratLane have revolutionized the online jewellery shopping experience, making it more accessible and convenient for a tech-savvy generation.

Additionally, there’s a strong focus on sustainable and ethical practices among these new businesses. Start-ups like Amrapali and Tribe are not only celebrating traditional Indian craftsmanship but also ensuring that their processes are environmentally friendly and ethically sound. This resonates with the growing segment of conscious consumers who value sustainability as much as aesthetics.

Furthermore, the support from the Indian government is fostering a nurturing ecosystem for young entrepreneurs. Initiatives like Startup India provide funding, mentorship, and resources, which are crucial for the growth and success of jewellery design start-ups.

The jewellery design sector is also seeing a surge in collaborations and partnerships, for example CaratLane tying up with Tanishq. Start-ups are teaming up with established designers and artisans to blend traditional expertise with modern business acumen.

It's an exciting time for the industry, with limitless possibilities for young designers and entrepreneurs ready to make their mark.

Jewellery is ‘wearable art’ and must not be bought only for investment

9. How, in your opinion, is technology changing the way jewellery is marketed?

Technology has transformed how jewellery is marketed, opening up new avenues for engagement and connection with consumers globally. Social media and e-commerce platforms have levelled the playing field, allowing jewellery brands to showcase their designs to a worldwide audience effortlessly. This accessibility has broken down traditional geographical barriers, enabling brands to reach and engage with customers in ways that were previously unimaginable.

Augmented reality (AR) has been particularly revolutionary in the online shopping experience. It allows customers to virtually try on jewellery pieces from the comfort of their homes, enhancing their confidence in making purchasing decisions. This interactive approach not only increases engagement but also fosters a deeper connection with brands, ultimately enhancing satisfaction and loyalty among customers.

Digital marketing strategies, such as targeted ads and collaborations with influencers, are pivotal in marketing efforts. Targeted ads ensure that brands reach specific demographics precisely, while influencer partnerships allow brands to leverage authentic endorsements that resonate with modern, tech-savvy consumers. These strategies enhance brand visibility and relevance in a competitive market landscape.

Overall, technology continues to redefine how brands connect with audiences and navigate the dynamic digital realm of jewellery marketing. It’s about leveraging these innovations to enhance customer experiences, personalise interactions, and build lasting relationships with our customers worldwide.

10. Of the Indian fashion icons who would you most like to see wearing the jewellery designed by you?

I would love to see the iconic Priyanka Chopra Jonas wearing jewellery designed by me. She is truly a woman of substance, an embodiment of beauty with brains who has shattered the glass ceiling and broken many stereotypes. Her bold persona would be enhanced by my contemporary statement pieces while my traditional jadaav polki jewellery would accentuate her femininity and grace. My evergreen classic jewellery designs would be a perfect foil for her timeless beauty and appeal. Jewellery must highlight the strengths of the wearer and speak their individual story. I believe my jewellery will resonate with Priyanka Chopra Jonas and positively reflect her inner and outer beauty: good looks, knowledge, confidence as well as strength of character and purpose. Her global influence, versatile style, and ability to carry both traditional and contemporary looks with elegance make her an ideal ambassador for fine jewellery.

11. If we may ask what is the most treasured item in your personal jewellery collection? Was it designed by you?

The most treasured item in my personal jewellery collection is a set consisting of a necklace, a pair of earrings and a pair of bangles in Art Deco design. I designed and manufactured the set to wear it for my wedding reception 25 years ago. The set consists of white natural diamonds in Round Brilliant, Marquise/ Navette/ boat-shape, Baguette (‘choki’) and Pear/Pendeloque (‘paan’) cuts. Illusion setting, Channel setting and Bezel setting are used. Yellow gold with white rhodium plating is used for the entire set. Beautiful milgraining work adds elegance to this set, which is reminiscent of French Art Deco period. I adore this set for its good-quality diamonds, exquisite craftsmanship and superior finishing. Also, it has extreme sentimental value as it reminds me of an important milestone in my life – my wedding in December 1999!

12. What would be your advice to jewellery connoisseurs?

A jewellery connoisseur must understand that jewellery is a “wearable art”. Jewellery must not be bought only for investment. It is meant for adornment. The value of jewellery is much more than the intrinsic cost. A genuine connoisseur must truly value the art and skill behind fine jewellery- he/she must take a moment to appreciate and admire the intricate details and expert craftsmanship in each piece. Whether it’s a vintage heirloom or a striking statement piece, craftsmanship is what distinguishes fine jewellery.

Genuine connoisseurs must educate themselves about the gems and metals used in jewellery -their origins, properties, and significance. Knowing the quality and authenticity of these elements enhances your appreciation of jewellery.

Connoisseurs must celebrate design diversity by exploring various styles and design traditions from around the globe. Fine jewellery boasts a wide range of aesthetics—from classic and timeless to modern and avant-garde. They must choose pieces that resonate with them and reflect their unique style.

Connoisseurs must be discerning customers and support brands that stand for ethical practices, sustainability, and fair labour practices. Their choices can drive positive change in the jewellery industry.

Jewellery often carries sentimental value, whether it’s an heirloom or a gift for a special occasion. Jewellery connoisseurs must cherish these meaningful connections and the stories behind the jewellery pieces.

Connoisseurs must have a mindset of continuous learning and discovery: staying curious and keep learning about jewellery by attending exhibitions, visiting museums, and engaging with experts to deepen their understanding and passion for the craft.

In essence, jewellery is a means of self-expression, cultural heritage, and craftsmanship that links us to our past and present. A jewellery connoisseur’s appreciation and support help preserve and celebrate this enduring art of jewellery.

13. What are the prospects for young people eager to make a career in the jewellery design sector?

Many career paths offer ample opportunities for creativity, innovation, and professional growth within the jewellery design industry in India. Designers can take advantage of these opportunities depending on their skill sets and capabilities.Here’re some of the career options to explore:

Here’re some of the career options to explore:

1. Working with established design firms or luxury brands to create new jewellery collections.

2. As a freelance designer, offering design services on a project basis. This allows for flexibility and a diverse portfolio.

3. As an entrepreneur, starting their jewellery brand or boutique, either online or through physical stores or both.

4. Involvement in the manufacturing and production process (from conceptualization to creation), in collaboration with jewellers and craftsmen.

5. Involvement in retail and merchandising by working with jewellery retail chains to develop and curate collections for stores.

6. Designing for jewellery export firms that cater to international markets, focusing on trends and demands of global customers.

7. Teaching at educational institutions, design schools and universities, mentoring the next generation of jewellery designers.

8. As a CAD specialist, specializing in computer-aided design to create detailed and precise jewellery designs.

9. Combining design skills with gemology expertise to work with precious stones and metals.

10. As a costume jewellery designer, creating affordable and fashionable pieces for a broader market.

11. As a design consultant, offering expert advice and design services to jewellery brands.

12. Collaborating with fashion designers and stylists to create complementing jewellery for clothing collections and fashion shows.

13. Specializing in the repair, restoration, and customization of antique or heirloom jewellery.